There’s something about gabardine that makes it hard to ignore. The first time I handled a bolt at Fabric Town, I ran my fingers along the smooth, tight weave and immediately pictured a blazer that fit just right, a skirt that held its shape, or even a small bag that looked surprisingly polished.
Gabardine isn’t flashy, but it has character. It’s firm, structured, and versatile, which is why makers of all experience levels keep coming back. Some are looking for wool gabardine for a warm winter coat. Others want cotton or cotton blends for skirts, trousers, or lighter jackets. Occasionally, someone experiments with small accessories or home projects, and gabardine makes them feel more finished than expected.
What I find fascinating is that everyone reacts the same way: gabardine feels solid and dependable, yet it also sparks ideas. Its structure helps garments keep their shape, but if you handle it carefully, it’s forgiving enough to work with. Cut along the grain, press seams slowly, and respect its natural drape, and your finished piece will look sharp and professional.
Working with gabardine can be tricky if you’re not used to it. Ignore the grain, rush cutting, or skip pressing, and seams can pucker, hems can sit unevenly, and the fabric may frustrate you. Over the years at FabricTown,, I’ve helped countless makers learn how to work with it properly. This guide shares everything I’ve learned, from picking the right type to handling and sewing it; so your projects come together well and last for years.
Gabardine suiting fabric: tightly woven twill with a smooth, crisp drape durable and wrinkle-resistant, ideal for tailored coats and trousers
What Gabardine Really Is
I think what makes gabardine special is how it’s woven. It’s a twill, which is why you see those faint diagonal lines on the back. The front is smooth and polished, almost like it’s ready-made to become a garment that wants to hold its shape. I remember the first time someone asked me, “Is it wool only?” and I realized how much people assume. Traditionally, yes, it was wool, but now there’s cotton, blends & even stretch gabardine. Each type behaves differently & you can feel that difference the moment you pick up a bolt.
Wool gabardine has this weight that feels reassuring. It’s firm but not stiff, almost as if it knows how a coat should drape or how a skirt should fall. I’ve seen it hold a blazer’s shoulders perfectly without looking boxy. Cotton gabardine, on the other hand, is lighter and softer. It still keeps lines but doesn’t feel heavy or formal. And then blends; these are a bit of a compromise. Easier to wash and often a bit more forgiving, but sometimes you lose the subtle authority that wool gives.
One thing I always notice is how the fabric responds when you move it. Pick up a piece, drape it over your arm, & you can feel how it will behave as a garment. That’s why I tell new makers: don’t just look at the bolt, touch it, lift it, drape it. Gabardine communicates with you in weight, tension & smoothness. You learn a lot about what a garment will do before you ever cut it.
Also, gabardine isn’t just about appearance. It’s durable. A wool gabardine coat I helped make years ago is still worn regularly by the client, decades later, & the fabric hasn’t sagged or frayed. That durability is why it’s been a favorite for uniforms, work clothes & classic tailored pieces for over a hundred years.
Types of Gabardine You’ll Love
At Fabric Town, I’ve watched makers gravitate toward different types of gabardine depending on what they want to create. Each type has its own personality, & choosing the right one can make all the difference between a garment that looks and feels professional and one that feels like it’s fighting you.
Wool Gabardine
This is the classic, the one most people picture when they think of gabardine. It’s firm, smooth & has a natural weight that gives structure to coats, jackets, skirts & trousers. I remember a client who came into Fabric town looking for wool gabardine for a fully lined trench coat. From the moment she felt the bolt, she knew it was right. We spent a while draping pieces over her arm to see how it moved. When she finally sewed the coat, it hung perfectly and had that crisp elegance only wool gabardine can offer. It’s the type of fabric that makes you slow down and pay attention, but the results are worth every careful step.
Cotton Gabardine
Cotton gabardine is softer and lighter than wool, but it still holds its shape. Makers often choose it for casual trousers, summer skirts, or lightweight jackets. One time, a young student came to Fabric Town looking for a breathable fabric for a pair of summer trousers. Cotton gabardine was perfect; it held the lines she wanted while remaining cool and easy to wear. It’s forgiving to sew, soft to touch, & over time, it develops a gentle, lived-in character without losing the crispness that makes gabardine special.
Blended or Synthetic Gabardine
Blended gabardine, often combining polyester with wool or cotton, is low-maintenance and resistant to wrinkles. I’ve had makers at FabricTown create travel blazers or everyday trousers using these blends & they always tell me how practical they are. They don’t drape like pure wool, but for busy schedules or frequent washing, they’re reliable. I remember one client traveling across Europe with a blazer made from a polyester-wool gabardine blend. She reported it came out of the suitcase looking almost new, proof that sometimes practicality wins.
Stretch Gabardine
Stretch gabardine is a newer version but has quickly become a favorite. By adding a touch of elastane or spandex, the fabric keeps its structured look but allows movement. I’ve seen makers craft pencil skirts or fitted trousers that feel tailored without restricting walking, sitting, or bending. At Fabric Town, stretch gabardine is often chosen for pieces where comfort is as important as elegance. It’s one of those fabrics that surprises makers with how much it can do.
Each type of gabardine has its own voice. At Fabric Town, we make it a point to let makers feel and handle every bolt so they can choose the one that speaks to their project. Some need the authority of wool, some the breathability of cotton, some the practicality of a blend, & some the flexibility of stretch. Paying attention to these qualities is what turns a good garment into a remarkable one.
Why Gabardine Stands Out
I have always found gabardine quietly impressive. It doesn’t shout like a floral cotton or shimmer like silk, but it has a presence that makes any garment feel considered. The first time I worked with a wool gabardine blazer, I remember how it held the shape of the shoulders without any stiff underlining. I was adjusting seams & the fabric almost seemed to cooperate, guiding the stitch where it wanted to go.
At Fabric Town, I often let makers handle bolts of gabardine and just watch. Their reactions are usually the same: a pause, a deep breath & a hand running across the smooth surface. Even plain gabardine has character. You can drape it, fold it, feel its weight, & imagine the finished piece. That’s something other fabrics don’t offer so intuitively.
Gabardine is also forgiving in the right ways. If you respect it, cut along the grain, press slowly, & handle gently, it will give you a clean, polished garment that feels deliberate. Ignore it, rush it, or misalign seams & it will silently remind you that it isn’t casual. I’ve seen a new maker wrestle with a skirt once; she was impatient, but once she slowed down and listened to the fabric, it fell perfectly, crisp and structured, almost like it was showing her the way.
What makes gabardine stand out, I think, is that it teaches you to work carefully and rewards you with results that look effortless. Even a simple pair of trousers or a coat has authority when made from gabardine. It’s not flashy, but it commands attention because of how well it holds form and drapes.
Classic gabardine: tightly woven twill with a crisp drape ideal for tailored suits and trousers
Choosing the Right Gabardine
Choosing gabardine is not as simple as picking a color or weight; it’s about imagining the garment before it even exists. I often tell makers at FabricTown to pick up a bolt and drape it over their arm, twist it slightly, feel the weight, & think about how it will move. That moment of interaction tells you more than any label ever could.
I remember one client who wanted a pair of trousers for daily wear. She initially chose a medium-weight wool gabardine, but when we draped it on her legs, it felt too stiff. We switched to a wool-cotton blend & suddenly the fabric flowed, held its lines, but allowed her to walk comfortably. That small adjustment made all the difference between a garment she would only wear occasionally and one she loved and used every day.
Weight matters, of course. Heavy wool works best for coats and structured skirts; it holds shape and provides warmth. Medium-weight wool or blends are great for trousers and blazers, they keep form but aren’t overly rigid. Lighter cotton or cotton-blend gabardine is ideal for summer skirts, jackets, or casual dresses. At Fabric town, we encourage makers to touch each type, feel the drape & think about how it will perform in daily life.
Color and finish also matter. Neutral tones feel timeless, while brighter or muted shades can give your project a modern edge. Smooth finishes lean formal; soft finishes feel more relaxed. And then there’s the matter of care: wool gabardine usually needs dry cleaning; cotton or blends are easier to wash carefully. Choosing the right gabardine is a balance between how it looks, how it feels & how it will fit into your life.
It’s not just about the project; it’s about the fabric teaching you. Gabardine communicates subtly. You can feel it when it’s right & you’ll know when it isn’t. That’s why taking time at the bolt, running your hands across it, draping it, imagining the finished piece is worth every extra minute.
Using Gabardine in Projects
Gabardine has this way of transforming even the simplest project into something that feels deliberate and polished. I’ve watched makers at Fabric town take basic patterns, a pair of trousers, a skirt, a blazer & see the fabric instantly elevate the piece. It’s like giving the garment a backbone; suddenly, it stands, drapes & moves exactly as you imagined.
I remember a client who was hesitant about using gabardine for a summer dress. She thought it would be too stiff. We chose a lighter cotton gabardine, & as soon as she draped it over her dress form, she was surprised at how it held the shape without feeling heavy. That skirt, simple in pattern, looked almost couture simply because the fabric behaved so predictably and elegantly.
Gabardine is also wonderful for layering. A wool gabardine blazer over a cotton skirt, for example, brings structure to a casual outfit without feeling rigid. You can mix weights and fibers & the gabardine will still provide form and polish. I’ve seen makers use gabardine panels in jackets, coats & skirts to create visual interest, & the results always look intentional.
Even small projects benefit. I’ve had makers at FabricTown create structured bags, hats & home accessories with gabardine scraps. The stiffness of the fabric helps these items hold their shape, making them look far more professional than if another fabric had been used. A tiny pocket on a jacket or a cuff on a coat in gabardine can make a simple piece feel elevated, like it was made with care and attention.
One thing I always tell makers is to respect the fabric. Gabardine can take a simple pattern and make it look precise, or it can expose rushed work if seams aren’t matched or pressed. It rewards patience, thought & care. That’s why I love seeing it in projects at Fabric Town; each maker ends up learning from it, & each finished piece carries a subtle elegance that other fabrics rarely provide.
Handling and Caring for Gabardine
Gabardine is the kind of fabric that really talks to you, if you listen. I remember a client at Fabric Town who bought a wool gabardine coat and tried to wash it at home. She came back a week later, frustrated, because the coat had lost its crisp edges and the hem looked uneven. That was the day I realized how many people underestimate this fabric. Wool gabardine usually needs dry cleaning, especially for coats and blazers. Cotton gabardine or blends are easier; they can often be hand-washed or put on a gentle machine cycle, but even then, you have to handle them carefully.
One thing I always tell makers is never twist or wring gabardine. Lay it flat or hang it to dry. I like to demonstrate this at Fabric Town by showing how the weight of wool gabardine can slowly change the shape of a garment if it’s handled roughly. Pressing is another area where patience matters. Use a low to medium heat, & for delicate pieces, a pressing cloth makes all the difference. I often press a coat sleeve in front of makers to show how a careful touch can make it look ready for a fashion shoot, even straight off the cutting table.
Storage is equally important. Heavy gabardine should be hung; light cotton gabardine can be folded, but always keep it neat. I’ve seen makers store pieces in piles and come back weeks later to find permanent creases. Treating the fabric with respect here pays off enormously later, when you’re sewing, pressing, or wearing the finished garment.
Ultimately, gabardine is patient. If you treat it gently, it rewards you with garments that drape beautifully, hold their shape & endure. That’s why at Fabric Town, I always emphasize slow handling, thoughtful pressing & careful storage. It’s a small effort for a huge payoff.
Sewing Tips From Experience
Sewing gabardine is a little like learning to play an instrument; you have to pay attention to its nuances & the results get better with practice. I often tell makers at Fabric Town to start by just handling the fabric, feeling the weight, the drape & even the tiny diagonal lines of the twill. Understanding how it behaves is half the battle.
One tip I always share is about cutting. Gabardine can shift slightly while you’re cutting, so I tell makers to pin carefully and consider using pattern weights. I remember a client who tried to rush through cutting a wool gabardine blazer; the pieces moved under the scissors & later, the seams didn’t line up. A little patience at the cutting table could have saved hours of frustration.
Needles and thread matter too. I usually suggest a sharp needle; size 80/12 or 90/14 works well for most gabardine. Long stitches prevent puckering, especially with heavier wool gabardine, & pressing each seam as you go keeps everything smooth. I often demonstrate this at FabricTown by showing how a poorly pressed seam can twist and distort, while a careful press makes the fabric behave like it’s always meant to stay flat.
Finishing edges is another area where experience counts. Wool and flannel gabardine fray quickly, so French seams or overlocking are almost always worth the extra time. I’ve had makers skip this step and end up frustrated when the edges start to unravel after a few washes. A small effort here makes a huge difference in the durability and professionalism of the finished garment.
Finally, always test on a scrap piece if you’re unsure, especially with delicate gabardine or blends. Even experienced makers benefit from trying a stitch or press on a small piece first. Over time, you develop a sort of intuition for gabardine; it tells you what it wants & the more you listen, the better your garments become.
Inspecting premium gabardine tightly woven twill with a smooth, structured drape, ideal for tailored coats and suits
Spotting Quality Gabardine
I’ve handled a lot of gabardine over the years at FabricTown & I can usually tell if a bolt is worth it just by touching it. Quality gabardine has a presence; it feels consistent from one end to the other. When I run my fingers over wool gabardine, it’s smooth, firm & has just enough weight to let you know it will hold a garment’s shape. I once had a client pick a bolt that looked fine on the shelf, but as we draped it over her arm, I felt some uneven spots. She was glad we caught it before she cut;, otherwise, the blazer she was planning might have looked crooked or sagged in the wrong places.
The diagonal twill lines on the back of gabardine are subtle but important. I check to see if they’re even across the fabric. If they’re not, the fabric can behave unpredictably when you sew it. I often fold the fabric and watch how it springs back; good gabardine has just enough resilience to give you confidence that your finished garment will drape properly and hold its shape.
Weight and color matter too. Heavy wool should feel substantial without being stiff; cotton should be light yet structured. I usually let makers at FabricTown feel several bolts side by side so they can notice the difference. And the color, vibrant and even-toned, is a sign that the dyeing was done carefully. Always check both sides of the fabric. The back shouldn’t have loose threads or rough patches; it should feel smooth enough to work with comfortably.
Lastly, trust your hands. Gently pinch or twist a small section. A quality gabardine springs back. It doesn’t stretch out & it doesn’t distort. Over time, handling fabric teaches you things you can’t see on a screen or in a photo. Gabardine communicates through touch & if you pay attention, it guides you to a successful project.
Common Mistakes
Cutting too fast or ignoring the grain: I’ve seen people grab scissors and just start, & gabardine has this way of moving that punishes mistakes. At FabricTown, I always suggest laying the bolt flat, draping it over your arm & taking a breath before cutting. It saves headaches later.
Skipping pressing while sewing: Some makers try to rush through seams & the fabric twists or puckers. Pressing as you go feels slow, but it makes everything line up perfectly in the end. I often demonstrate this at Fabric Town; with a blazer sleeve, it’s night and day.
Not finishing edges: Wool and flannel fray fast. If you ignore French seams or overlocking, tiny threads come loose and ruin the garment after just a few wears.
Choosing the wrong weight: Heavy wool for a summer skirt? Too stiff. Light cotton for a structured coat? Doesn’t hold. I usually have makers drape the fabric first to see how it falls.
Trying to dye gabardine: The weave and colors are precise. I’ve seen makers try to change a shade and end up with blotchy patches. It's better to work with the fabric as it comes.
Handling it roughly: Twisting, wringing, or shoving it in storage can create permanent creases or distort the weave. Folding or hanging gently keeps it happy and ready to sew.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is gabardine good for everyday wear?
Yes, definitely. Cotton or cotton-blend gabardine is soft enough for daily skirts, trousers, or light jackets. Wool gabardine is heavier but perfect for structured pieces like coats or blazers. I often show makers at Fabric town how layering gabardine with softer fabrics can make it comfortable for daily wear.
Does gabardine wrinkle easily?
Not really. Wool gabardine holds its shape well and stays crisp. Cotton or blends may need an occasional press, but generally the fabric looks neat all day. I’ve had clients surprised at how little fuss it takes to keep a gabardine blazer looking sharp.
Can I sew gabardine without a serger?
Absolutely. French seams or carefully bound edges work well. Many beginners at Fabric Town, start without a serger and still get professional-looking garments.
Is gabardine okay for children?
Yes, if you pick soft cotton or blends. Wool is heavier and structured, so it’s better for outerwear or older kids’ garments. I’ve seen makers craft little cotton gabardine skirts and trousers for kids that hold their shape without being scratchy.
Is gabardine eco-friendly?
Natural fibers like wool and cotton are better than synthetic blends, but sourcing is key. At Fabric Town, we make a point of offering responsibly sourced wool and cotton gabardine whenever possible.
Can I dye gabardine?
Not really. The tight weave and precise colors make even dyeing tricky. I’ve seen attempts that ended in blotches or uneven shades. It’s usually best to pick your color carefully from the start.
Does Fabric Town do special orders?
Yes. Makers often request specific blends, weights, or colors & we do our best to source them. Stretch gabardine, wool-cotton blends, or custom shades are all possible if you plan ahead.
Conclusion
Gabardine has always felt like a quietly powerful fabric to me. It doesn’t scream for attention with patterns or colors, but when you use it, it makes a garment look deliberate and cared for. I’ve watched a plain skirt, a pair of trousers, or even a blazer completely transform simply because it was made from a good piece of gabardine. There’s something satisfying about how it drapes, holds its shape & responds when you handle it gently.
Even small projects benefit. A pocket detail, a cuff, or a little bag made from leftover scraps suddenly feels polished and intentional. At Fabric Town, I love watching makers work with gabardine. You can see them adjusting, pinning carefully, pressing seams just so; they’re learning to respect the fabric, & the fabric rewards them in turn.
Choose the right type for your project, handle it with care & sew slowly, & gabardine will give you pieces that last, feel comfortable & look professional. It teaches patience, attention & respect for materials.
At Fabrictown.ca , we stock a wide selection of wool, cotton, blends & stretch options, so you can find the right fabric for what you’re making. I always encourage makers to spend a few minutes with each bolt: feel it, imagine how it will hang, & let it guide your choices. Gabardine isn’t just fabric. It’s a collaborator. Treat it well & it helps you make garments that feel timeless, practical & truly yours.